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Zippers construction



  • Official comment
    BW Forum Team

    Hi Julie-Gil,

    Thanks for reaching out! 

    When adding zippers to a garment, it is important to remember that we do not use seam allowance in 3D. Many elements of how we understand applying a zipper involve seam allowance and must be adapted to suit the no seam allowance 3D workflow.

    First, when creating your 3D zipper asset, consider the “width” option for the zipper tape to mean the width of the tape showing.

    In the below example, we have a quarter zip where the tape is showing. To create this look, we will shape the area out of the pattern where the zipper would be placed. We will assign the zipper to both edges and add seam stitching around the edge to finish the look.

    For covered zippers, if the zipper slightly shows, or you are wanting to be able to unzip the zipper, we can add separate pattern pieces the size of the lip set to a higher layer than the body.

    For an invisible zipper, we would stitch the seam closed, and apply an invisible zipper head 3D object to the top of the seam. The default stitch construction of “open” will highlight the slight dip that the invisible zipper makes.

  • Astrid Hanenkamp

    I have a hard time thinking about this whole no-seam-allowance workflow, it always trips me up, and I am wondering what it does for the exported pattern-pieces that might go to a sample maker directly? They would always be missing some of those seams and details that you would normally have on the pattern. It is hard to change my mind-set on that. :)

  • BW Forum Team

    Hi Astrid,

    In these cases, we recommend keeping a copy of the unaltered pattern piece in the file. You can clone a piece by right clicking and choosing clone. Next, we can set the cloned piece aside for reference by either turning of “use in 3D” (which will keep the piece in the 2D workspace) or we can choose to “don’t use selected pieces” this piece (which removes the piece from the 2D workspace and stores it in the 2D tab pattern list).

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