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Corset is so close! A few critical questions first

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4 comments

  • BW Forum Team

    Hi Stephen, 

    I am so glad you found the video helpful and that you are enjoying using the software!

    Looking at the screenshots provided, my first thought is that this appears to still be in default fabric. When adjusting the pattern for fit, I would highly recommend first moving to the close substitute or actual final fabric before evaluating the garment fit. The default fabric is somewhat like a lightweight woven but is not intended to represent one particular real material. When we move to the final fabric, we may find that some of the areas that needed to be fixed when in default fabric are eliminated, or that new fit issues appear.

    After updating the fabric, if we see that more stiffness is still needed, we will need to create a wire for a stiffer effect. The boning video also shows how to create a wire for a shaped V neckline. We can use the same process to add wire for the bonding to the garment.

    Another recommendation for the shirring not appearing straight across the bottom would be to add some height to the shirring pattern piece. When working with full piece shirring in 3D, it can be a bit tricky to determine the proper shape. When creating full piece shirring, we would generally send the fabric to be shirred, then use the final pattern shape as a template to cut out the shape from the shirred fabric. With this process in mind, it can be hard to determine the exact flat pattern shape of the shirring piece. When creating a full piece shirring, we may think it would be good enough to just multiply the amount of shrink we want to add to the width of the piece. We may actually need to add additional height to the piece as the shirring will also somewhat shrink in this direction due to the fabric being pulled in.

    We can stitch a lining piece to a garment by taking that piece and stitching the edges of it to the edges of the external piece. As an example, maybe in this style the shirring is intended to be visual rather than add actual stretch. We can stitch the final shape to the shirred piece as a lining/support.

    Hope this is helpful information, 

    Good luck, 

    Zisie 

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  • Stephen Mendoza

    Hi Zisie,

    Thank you so much for the detailed help here. This helped me clear a couple of hurdles and introduced me to a few new functionalities. Before I ask a few more questions and provide a status on this garment, I wanted to also thank Browzwear for incorporating the Blender Cycles renderer as an option in Vstitcher! Incredibly valuable addition! Please keep that.

    A few additional questions:

    1. When I open DB Admin and click the Add button to create a new wire, nothing shows up on the right side of the DB Admin window. I've downloaded and installed the latest DB Admin and also older versions but no success creating a new wire.
    2. Without the Browzwear fabric analyzer, is there a reference table I can use to approximate the material I am attempting to simulate? I do see some presets in the physics window (which is super nice!) but wasn't sure if there is another resource somewhere with additional fabric physics profiles.
    3. I'm using 50% shink setting on my shirred panel, is that reasonable? In your example above, what shrink value do you have set?
    4. I have the boning casings stitched to the inner liner vs the outer panels, is that good form?

      The help with the above questions I feel will get me across the finish line!

    Thanks again! 

    -Stephen

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  • BW Forum Team

    Hi Stephen, 

    1. Note, DB Admin is only available for windows. It can be downloaded here DBAdmin 1.6.
    1. Once installed, you will need to add a database key to add to the database. You can reference the following link Adding a New Database. Use the following key to add the database. This key is associated with the Indie license DBID: eyJJRCI6IjEyMzgiLCJOYW1lIjoiMjAyMCBJbmRpZXMifQ==X012D33ZZ
    1. We always recommend testing fabric with the fabric analyzer for accurate 3D results. Because of this, we do not have recommendations on estimating the physics for a material in 3D. Instead, we recommend using the Browzwear cloud library fabrics as substitutes for a 3D material if a material cannot be tested with a fabric analyzer. We do have more information on what the physics values mean if you are looking to better understand the data seen in the physics dialog box. This reference can be found at Physics Reference.
    1. In the example I shared, I am also using 50% shrink. This amount is common when shirring patterns/fabrics.
    1. Where the boning casing is stitched would depend on how the style is intended to be stitched. If the casing is on the inside, then we can stitch it to the inside, if it is on the outside, then we can stitch it to the outside. If it is sandwiched between the two layers, stitching to either while it is layered between the two should have the same result.
    Hope this information is helpful, 
    Best of luck, 
    Zisie 
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  • Stephen Mendoza

    Hi Zisie,

    Thank you for the amazing support! DB Admin now runs fine and I'm able to continue adding custom wires. Thanks also for the reference to the physics properties. That is really helpful. 

    Best,
    Stephen

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